Our time in Paris has come to an end. It's time to get back to the greatest city in the world (Toronto). As has become customary around here, I'd like to summarize some of my anecdotal observations from the trip. Here goes:
The first one is an obvious one. Paris has transformed itself into a cycling city. Bold planning moves have explicitly prioritized biking, and you can feel it everywhere you go, including outside of the Périphérique. Young and old, families and individuals, everyone seems to cycle in Paris. In parallel to this, it feels like there has been a noticeable reduction in vehicular traffic. Many of the smaller streets around Paris almost feel like they've been pedestrianized. But in fact, it's just because there are so few cars.
Because of this change, I asked an Uber driver this past week if traffic has gotten worse and if it has generally gotten harder to drive in Paris. His response was absolutely. So I then asked him how Parisians generally feel about all of the changes and all of the new cycling lanes. The first part of his answer didn't surprise me. He said people who live in Paris love it because it's now easier to get around and they don't need to own a car. It's more efficient. But people who drive into the city or pass through it don't like it. Fair. However, as somebody who drives for a living, the second part of his answer did surprise me. He said, the changes
needed
to be done — bikes are a more efficient form of transport and they have greatly reduced pollution within the city. I thought this was quite an enlightened and selfless response.
The geography of Paris is changing. Parisians used to think of their city as only existing within the boundaries of the Boulevard Périphérique. (This is technically the boundary of Paris proper, but there is also the Métropole du Grand Paris, which encompasses the greater urban region.) New investments in transit, new developments, and pioneering urbanists are changing this mental model. A New Paris has arrived. And its modal split seems to be skewed toward non-car forms of mobility, to the point that younger Parisians don’t even seem to bother getting a driver’s license.
Anecdotally, I also noticed a big uptick in running, in the number of gyms/fitness studios in the city, and in the number of people walking around in athleisure wear. I view this as North American culture creeping in. Historically, my understanding is that running — and getting sweaty in public — was considered a bit of a faux pas. But at one point this week, I saw a parade of people running in and out of a Drip and doing laps down a busy street filled with cafés. Clearly, attitudes have changed.
Paris is, of course, well known for its cafés and terraces. But I would like to emphasize how beneficial these spaces are for the city. Every terrace comes equipped with a large awning that extends out into the street and creates a kind of outdoor room. These rooms then fill up with an endless supply of people facing outward, adding life, conversation, and eyes on the street. It's a wonderful way to create urban vibrancy, and you really feel the difference on streets where they don't exist. More cities need to figure out how to replicate this simple formula.
Food is different in Paris (and in Europe more broadly). There is real concern over the quality of ingredients and what we put in our bodies. We touched on this briefly, here. The difference is that you feel as if you can eat whatever you want, and the end result is that you feel satisfied, not gross. You also don't feel as if you've just ingested a sodium bomb.
On this trip, Bianca and I spent a lot of time exploring the 9ème, 10ème (where we were staying), and 11ème arrondissements, with regular trips south to Le Marais. We've now been to Paris enough that we're starting to figure out which areas we like the most. (If you have a favorite area, please leave it in the comments section below.)
Finally, I would like to end by saying that the trains in Paris are something they should be proud of. When we come to Paris, we always take the train into the city and, on this trip, we took the metro on a number of occasions to get out to places like Pantin and Boulogne. Not once did we wait more than a minute or two for a train. In fact, even during off-peak times, the maximum headway between trains seemed to be 4 minutes. With this at your doorstep, and with all the new cycling infrastructure that has been introduced, I guess it's no wonder that many Parisians couldn't care less about driving.
When most people think of Paris, they only think of Paris proper, meaning the 20 neighbourhoods that exist within the confines of the Boulevard Périphérique. But as we talked about yesterday, that is quickly changing as a result of new investments in transit, a more porous border (le Périph), and progressive new developments. Greater Paris is transforming itself into a larger and more cohesive urban region, and it is creating what is, in effect, a new Paris.
Because of this, the preconceived notions that many Parisians hold about the areas outside of the Périph are changing. Old money has long clustered in the western inner suburbs, eschewed the east, and preferred to drive. But today a new generation is colonizing the east and making different mobility choices while they're at it.
Earlier this week, I got a taste of what that looks like. Olivier Raoux and Amaury De Benoist of Alios Développement were kind enough to invite me to tour two of their projects, one of which is on the other side of the Périph and called Les Grandes-Serres de Pantin. So I got up early, pretended I was going to work like everyone else, and jumped on the metro in the 10ème. Within 15 minutes I was at Église de Pantin station. And a few minutes after that, I was crossing the Ourcq Canal.
The first thing I noticed was the people. It was just after 8am and it was busy. Everyone, including young children, seemed to be biking to work or school. I had been expecting to find a neighbourhood that was on its way to becoming something, but instead I found a neighbourhood that had seemingly already arrived, and I was late. It was also further evidence that Paris is now unapologetically a biking city.
Once across, I learned that a new pedestrian bridge is also going to be built leading directly from the metro station to the site, making the short commute from transit even shorter. Here is the mockup:
This pedestrian bridge will connect to a new public plaza at the entrance to the project's anchor building. A former spring factory from the late 19th century, it will soon serve as the focal point for a new mixed-use office park. Its program will include a food market, daily retail services, schools, a large auditorium, DJ events, and the project's first office tenants, among other things. It's a major forward investment, but one that will provide many of the amenities for the larger development — and clearly establish a place in Pantin.
As a quick aside, during our site walk, the gentleman below asked me if I would take his photo. He then asked where the photo would be used (I told him it would be on this world-renowned blog), and he took note of the URL. But unfortunately, I didn't get his name. So if you're reading this monsieur, please get in touch with your details at hello@globizen.com and I'll update this post with a credit to you.
In addition to the main hall, the project's first ground-up office building is also under construction.
The structure is a combination of cast-in-place concrete (which, by the way, was of truly impressive quality) and mass timber floor slabs. By code, the mass timber slabs must be encapsulated, which is also the case in Canada above certain heights. But that has not stopped the top floor of the building from looking like this:
I spent a morning with Olivier and Amaury, and I can say Alios shares many of the same values that guide our work at Globizen. They invest in architecture and design, they focus on quality of place, and they work diligently to build their city in ways that other developers may be overlooking. It was impressive to see. Thank you both, once again, for being so generous with your time and for inviting me to tour your projects.
I'll also add that I left the meeting feeling genuinely excited about the future of Paris. Or should I say, new Paris. Step outside the Périphérique and you’ll find neighbourhoods humming with energy, creativity, and new ideas.
Paris has a massive transit project that is currently under construction called the Grand Paris Express. It consists of 4 new metro lines, 1 line extension (at both ends), 68 new stations, and 200 km of new tracks. The first phase was the extension of Line 14. That opened last year. And the new lines are planned to open in stages up until 2031. I have no idea if they're on schedule and/or on budget, but here's a map of the GPE project:
Here's what it looks like if you overlay all existing metro lines (note how concentrated they are in Paris proper and how they're clearly designed to bring people into the core):
Here's what it looks like if you overlay all existing tram lines:
And finally, here's what it looks like if you overlay all existing RER lines (suburban rail):
At this point, the map is getting visually pretty cluttered. But if you look at how the GPE lines compare to what's existing, I think you'll start to see just how important this project is for the Métropole du Grand Paris (or Greater Paris). It creates a new set of concentric rings in the inner suburbs and, for the first time, it will allow Parisians to travel around the region (via rail) without first passing through the core of the city. So it's in effect both an expansion and a stitching together of the city.
But let's put some numbers to this.
According to a recent memo by Apur, which looked at the economic composition of the station areas, about 21% of all salaried employees in Grand Paris are located next to one of the new 68 stations. As a total number, this works out to about 934,000 employees (2022 figure). And included in this figure is La Défense, which is the office district where Paris decided to put most of its tall buildings. This has the highest concentration of jobs at approximately 163,599 salaried employees (again, 2022 figure).
Another way to think about these station areas is that they represent what many are now calling New Paris. This is a part of Paris that is less encumbered with history and, therefore, more open to change and new ideas. This creates an exciting opportunity, and already we're seeing that take hold. Later this week on the blog, I'll talk about a specific project in Greater Paris that is currently under construction and that I was fortunate enough to tour on this trip.
