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| 1. | Brandon Donnelly | 14M |
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I was on the Bench yesterday for meetings and, as is usually the case, I learned a little more about how wine is made. Typically when you're laying out grapevines you want to align them for sun exposure. In hotter regions, you might align them east-west to minimize the harsh afternoon son. And in cooler climates, like Niagara or Burgundy, you might align them north-south to try and maximize sun exposure.
But what I learned is that topography often takes priority over sun exposure — especially in cooler regions. In practice, this means you generally want to align the grapevines so that they follow the slope of the land. Why? Because cold air is heavier than warm air. Aligning with the slope allows cold air to naturally drain away, which helps the vines survive the winter and reduces the risk of things like spring frost.
If, instead, you aligned the vineyard rows across the slope (as opposed to up and down), well then cold air might get trapped. The same is true for water drainage. I'm told you don't want pooling. And this is why it tends to be more important to optimize for topography rather than just sun exposure, though I'm sure it gets a lot more nuanced when you really know what you're doing.
Regardless, I find all of this fascinating because it's an intensely local activity. You need to understand how the sun moves across the site. You need to understand the site contours and where air and water will flow. And then you need to optimize for these specific conditions. It's exactly how architecture used to work before we had active mechanical systems, like AC, that could do all of the work for us.
When we closed on the development site for Project Bench at the end of 2023, our team went for dinner at Restaurant Pearl Morissette to celebrate. It's one of the top-rated restaurants in Canada, it's 8 minutes from the site, and so it was the sensible thing to do. Their architect — gh3 — is also our architect.
I still remember when chef Eric Robertson brought out the amuse-bouche to start us off. He explained what it was and then reassured us that we would not be needing Uber Eats after this fine dining experience. We would leave full, deeply satisfied, and with a new appreciation for the Niagara culinary scene.
He was, of course, right about everything.
So it's no surprise that the following year, the restaurant earned both a Michelin Star (the very first in the Niagara region) and a Green Star for sustainability (only the second ever awarded in Canada). After having eaten there, we all knew it was only a matter of time.
Fast forward to today and they have yet another reason to celebrate. Canada's 100 Best dropped their 2025 list of the best fine-dining restaurants in the country on Monday and #1 on the list was none other than Restaurant Pearl Morissette.
Neat B and I were on the Bench this past long weekend. Hidden Bench Estate Winery was doing "Raclette on the Bench" and so, naturally, we went to check that out. We're suckers for Savoie-like mountain food. Anthony Bourdain was also right when he said, "you can never have too much cheese, bacon, or starch."
All of the above ingredients were local and we ended up sitting beside a nice lady from Upper Canada Cheese (the source of the raclette). She told us all about the benefits of A2 milk and explained that it's why people often feel better consuming copious amounts of cheese in Europe compared to in North America, even if they're lactose intolerant.
After Hidden Bench, we decided to go down the street to Domaine Le Clos Jordanne. We had never been before but we actually served one of their wines at our wedding last summer. They specialize in chardonnay and pinot noir. As soon as we walked in the door, we were super impressed by the space, and our host Tamara.
The interiors are by Solid Design Creative and they collaborated with Pamela Nelson on a really great 16-foot high art installation. It is meant to represent the "terroir" of the winery -- namely its strata of limestone, clay, sand, and silt -- and that is, of course, what their winemaker is all about. Turning the Bench region into liquid form.
If you haven't been, I would highly recommend a visit to both of these wineries, followed by a stopover at UCC for some A2-milk cheese. Or so I've been told.
I was on the Bench yesterday for meetings and, as is usually the case, I learned a little more about how wine is made. Typically when you're laying out grapevines you want to align them for sun exposure. In hotter regions, you might align them east-west to minimize the harsh afternoon son. And in cooler climates, like Niagara or Burgundy, you might align them north-south to try and maximize sun exposure.
But what I learned is that topography often takes priority over sun exposure — especially in cooler regions. In practice, this means you generally want to align the grapevines so that they follow the slope of the land. Why? Because cold air is heavier than warm air. Aligning with the slope allows cold air to naturally drain away, which helps the vines survive the winter and reduces the risk of things like spring frost.
If, instead, you aligned the vineyard rows across the slope (as opposed to up and down), well then cold air might get trapped. The same is true for water drainage. I'm told you don't want pooling. And this is why it tends to be more important to optimize for topography rather than just sun exposure, though I'm sure it gets a lot more nuanced when you really know what you're doing.
Regardless, I find all of this fascinating because it's an intensely local activity. You need to understand how the sun moves across the site. You need to understand the site contours and where air and water will flow. And then you need to optimize for these specific conditions. It's exactly how architecture used to work before we had active mechanical systems, like AC, that could do all of the work for us.
When we closed on the development site for Project Bench at the end of 2023, our team went for dinner at Restaurant Pearl Morissette to celebrate. It's one of the top-rated restaurants in Canada, it's 8 minutes from the site, and so it was the sensible thing to do. Their architect — gh3 — is also our architect.
I still remember when chef Eric Robertson brought out the amuse-bouche to start us off. He explained what it was and then reassured us that we would not be needing Uber Eats after this fine dining experience. We would leave full, deeply satisfied, and with a new appreciation for the Niagara culinary scene.
He was, of course, right about everything.
So it's no surprise that the following year, the restaurant earned both a Michelin Star (the very first in the Niagara region) and a Green Star for sustainability (only the second ever awarded in Canada). After having eaten there, we all knew it was only a matter of time.
Fast forward to today and they have yet another reason to celebrate. Canada's 100 Best dropped their 2025 list of the best fine-dining restaurants in the country on Monday and #1 on the list was none other than Restaurant Pearl Morissette.
Neat B and I were on the Bench this past long weekend. Hidden Bench Estate Winery was doing "Raclette on the Bench" and so, naturally, we went to check that out. We're suckers for Savoie-like mountain food. Anthony Bourdain was also right when he said, "you can never have too much cheese, bacon, or starch."
All of the above ingredients were local and we ended up sitting beside a nice lady from Upper Canada Cheese (the source of the raclette). She told us all about the benefits of A2 milk and explained that it's why people often feel better consuming copious amounts of cheese in Europe compared to in North America, even if they're lactose intolerant.
After Hidden Bench, we decided to go down the street to Domaine Le Clos Jordanne. We had never been before but we actually served one of their wines at our wedding last summer. They specialize in chardonnay and pinot noir. As soon as we walked in the door, we were super impressed by the space, and our host Tamara.
The interiors are by Solid Design Creative and they collaborated with Pamela Nelson on a really great 16-foot high art installation. It is meant to represent the "terroir" of the winery -- namely its strata of limestone, clay, sand, and silt -- and that is, of course, what their winemaker is all about. Turning the Bench region into liquid form.
If you haven't been, I would highly recommend a visit to both of these wineries, followed by a stopover at UCC for some A2-milk cheese. Or so I've been told.
This is well deserved and an incredible accomplishment for the team. It's also a testament to the extraordinary food and wine that is today coming out of the Niagara Benchlands region. It's clearly some of the best in the country and the world, and it's only getting better. (RPM is also on France's La Liste.)
I obviously have a vested interest in the Bench region, but I also just love celebrating Canadian successes. I want us to be the best at everything we do, and that's what this team is shooting for. So if you're in the market for a truly exceptional culinary experience, I highly recommend you check out RPM.
This is well deserved and an incredible accomplishment for the team. It's also a testament to the extraordinary food and wine that is today coming out of the Niagara Benchlands region. It's clearly some of the best in the country and the world, and it's only getting better. (RPM is also on France's La Liste.)
I obviously have a vested interest in the Bench region, but I also just love celebrating Canadian successes. I want us to be the best at everything we do, and that's what this team is shooting for. So if you're in the market for a truly exceptional culinary experience, I highly recommend you check out RPM.
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